First light came soon, as did the Nigerians' singing. The Germans were celebrating communion, and the Bedouins were still hawking their blankets - a remarkable cacophony. Sunrise, the last sunrise of 2002, came at 6:30, a brilliant red peeking over the horizon.
Read MoreOne of the two reasons we came to this area is the Convent of St. Catherine's. Since the third century, small monastic communities settled on and around the holy Mount Sinai, fleeing Roman persecution and revering the site of the burning bush and the delivery of the ten commandments.
Read MoreWe walked from the center of town to our hotel, spread-out stone bungalows perfectly camouflaged in the shadow of impressive mountains that surrounded the slowly tilting plain.
Read MoreIt was then that the contrast really struck us - the brown, seemingly lifeless, dry desert peaks above, and the colorful, breath-taking scene teeming with life below.
Read MoreThe "holiday village" where we are staying is pleasant enough, standing off by itself. Clusters of rectangular stone huts topped by whitewashed domes, like Motel 6's version of Cairo's City of the Dead.
Read MoreThe conversation was pervaded with questions of whether to stay in Israel, who was already gone, where to get gas masks, whether to get inoculations. The looming war with Iraq has serious consequences for people in Israel, as Saddam Hussein - if attacked - would probably try to attack Israel, as he did in the first Gulf War.
Read MoreThere is an important distinction between understanding a point of view and agreeing with it.
Read MoreIn the words of Fr. Aktham's Christmas message, "In the midst of a war zone, we send to you our greetings in the name of the Prince of Peace." Merry Christmas.
Read MorePalestinians are not allowed to travel from Ben Gurion anymore. And it takes three hours to deliver this definitive news, apparently.
Read MoreSince 9:00 that morning, soldiers had stopped all movement along the road. Perhaps two hundred students who had tried to make their way from Zababdeh up to take their exams were stopped by the soldiers, not allowed to go to the University or back home. Most young men had their IDs taken as they waited. After a couple hours, the women and the professors were told they could go, but they decided to stay, both as a sign of solidarity and because they feared what might happen to the male students if they left.
Read MoreFr. Thomas was keen to point out that those children who came represented quite the "icon" of the body of Christ: Orthodox, Catholic, Melkite, and Anglican children all came.
Read MorePart way into the service, the electricity cut out - frustrations with the local grid continue - so Marthame and Homam preached by candlelight.
Read MorePalestinians often say, "We are not living - we are like animals, surviving." Today, Marthame felt that sentiment in his bones.
Read MoreOne soldier helpfully offered that we could take the children in Fr. Aktham's car, or that one of us could drive the bus. Fr. Aktham protested the unreasonableness of this, which the ski-masked soldier answered with, "Do you think I care? I don't care! He can wait five more hours for all I care!" as he waved his M-16 around.
Read MoreThis afternoon, Marthame came home with a bag and a big, long box: Fr. Aktham gave us a tree and ornaments as a Christmas present!
Read MoreOne of the casualties of the last two years has been Palestinian hospitality - famous for its generosity, it has not had many opportunities to extend itself over the last two years.
Read MoreFr. Aktham preached on the text of John the Baptist, Ein Kerem's native son, crying in the wilderness. This is our call, he told the congregation, our evangelism, to be the Christian voice in this land.
Read MoreIt has been seventeen years since Fr. Stephen, the last Melkite priest, died, and now Stephen's son was able to witness the ordination of his oldest son. A proud moment too long in coming.
Read More
The close-knit nature of society here, with mostly small towns and strong family allegiances keeps a kind of peace. We wonder at this, considering where we came from: what would happen in Chicago or Atlanta or even Lubbock if there were suddenly no police? It gives us the shudders, and gives us an appreciation for our host culture.
Read MoreOne person said they'd been told by an American Christian that working for reconciliation in Israel and Palestine is sinful, because it impedes God's progress toward Armageddon.
Read More