December 31, 2002

The alarm went off at 2:00 a.m. Soon after, we layered up and began our climb up Mt. Sinai. Being up there in time for sunrise, despite our better judgment, seems to be the thing to do, so we obliged.

The beginning was quite beautiful. The darkness of the surrounding area lit up the stars that much brighter. And since it's the thing to do, we joined in with tourist and pilgrim groups from places like Nigeria and Russia. Everyone had flashlights, so we began as one long candlelight procession - lights trailing behind us, lights leading the way in front of us.

Periodically, a Bedouin would meet us in the dark with the offer of a camel ride in six different languages. Just when we thought we were in an isolated area, a warming hut offering blankets and hot drinks would appear. After a while, we began to wonder if Moses went up for sunrise, too - probably not.

Elizabeth took up the offer of a camel ride for a while, giving her legs a rest and giving her the chance to see the stars and dramatic reddish crescent moon just ascending.

The last stretch is known as the stairs of repentance - mostly because we were asking our bodies for forgiveness. We arrived at the top at 5:30, and found it much colder than when we were moving. Really, really, finger-numbingly cold in the desert, at night, on the top of a mountain, in winter.

The last sunrise of 2002 greets us at the top of Mt. Sinai, Egypt.

Pilgrims atop Mt. Sinai silhouetted against the sunrise.

First light came soon, as did the Nigerians' singing. The Germans were celebrating communion, and the Bedouins were still hawking their blankets - a remarkable cacophony. Sunrise, the last sunrise of 2002, came at 6:30, a brilliant red peeking over the horizon.

The monastery of St. Catherine visible from the descent down Mt. Sinai in Egypt.

We began the collective descent, choosing to take the path of 3000 stairs on the way down. The view was remarkable, as the mountains below - ringed by clouds of mist - began to change colors before us as shadows shifted. We came across ancient portals where priests would hear the confessions of pilgrims. Just as our legs were beginning to give out and our calves were being turned into veal, we heard a scream and came across a crowd of folks gathered around an older woman who had fallen and hit her head on a rock. Though dazed and bleeding, she was OK - a warning to us and our rubbery legs.

We made it back safely and in time for the last dregs of breakfast and checkout. The man at reception was anxious for us to leave so we packed up and headed out a little earlier than we'd planned. And the initial offer of a thirty pound ($6) taxi ride to the bus soon plummeted to 5 pounds ($1). Bargaining is par for the course in Egypt, and in order to keep from going crazy, you have to come expecting it as part of the experience - and be willing to play your bluffs through.

While sipping on tea and waiting for the bus back to Dahab, we were approached by several Czech backpackers headed there as well. They had bargained a taxi driver down within range of the bus price, but needed a few more riders. We joined them for the ride, but in the rush Elizabeth left fifty pounds (instead of fifty qirsh) for her tea. Our panic at this error soon abated when we realized it was only a $10 error. It's not great, but it is survivable to make such mistakes in Egypt - Switzerland is another story.

We had lunch at a Dahab hippy-area pizzeria overlooking the water (where Elizabeth saw a flying fish!) before checking back into our lovely little salt water respite (a welcome site after Dino-ville). And even though it was New Year's Eve, somehow an early bedtime seemed far more inviting. Happy New zzzzzzzzzzzz...