December 28, 2002 — Mudeif Productions

*A jellyfish floating on the Red Sea surface.*

*Colorful fish abound in the coral reefs of the Red Sea.*

*A freshly shaved Marthame, ready to hit the Red Sea.*

*A clown fish amidst the colorful coral reef.*

Our hotel is book-ended by two dive shops. Marthame shaved his mustache (otherwise the mask can't make a seal - something we discovered the last time we tried to go snorkeling) and we rented our equipment - $5 for the works. We happily squeezed into the wetsuits - mostly for sunburn protection but also an extra layer against the slightly chilly water (and against any prickly/stingy/pokey marine life we might encounter).

The beach in front of our hotel abuts the coral reef, so we began swimming as soon as the water was deep enough - about four feet out. We were first met by a coarse white sandy bottom and green plants, all bowing in rhythm with the waves. Sea urchins, diadem urchins, and sea cucumbers were the most active critters to meet us immediately. But soon, we were seeing a number of fish - pufferfish, inflating themselves for our benefit, hid under rocks. The sand eventually gives way to a brilliant array of colored coral - blues, reds, pinks.

*Schools of fish against the back drop of the coral reef.*

About fifty yards from the shore, the reef drops off dramatically - a moment that should be accompanied by dramatic music, like the moment the plane soars over the Grand Canyon. The greenish water gave way to blue - deep, intense blue - and an array of underwater coral islands. Harmless jellyfish hovered at the surface. Schools of silvery lunar fusilliers retreated, making swift synchronized turns when we approached. Cornetfish opened their elongated mouths, feeding passively on the sea. Unicornfish, with their namesake "horn"ed foreheads and brightly spotted tail fins, descended towards the distant sandy bottom. Butterflyfish in their bright yellows eyed us nervously. We caught sight of a lone anemonefish striking a pose against a light coral background.

Periodically, we would poke our heads above the water to adjust our masks and to compare notes. It was then that the contrast really struck us - the brown, seemingly lifeless, dry desert peaks above, and the colorful, breath-taking scene teeming with life below. Marthame's assessment, while prosaic, was quite accurate: "This is the coolest thing I've ever seen!"

Upon our return we discovered that the Red Sea is not only the source of our entertainment, it is also the hotel's source of tap water. Nothing like a hot salty shower... The rest of the day hardly seems worth mentioning in comparison. Falling asleep, we thought about floating among the waves, and that effortless scene of gracious beauty.