April 17, 2001

We then made our way back to Zababdeh by the by-roads and the dusty trails, avoiding roadblocks and bulldozed ways, taking a detour through the Jordan Valley at one point and through the desert non-roads at another point, following cars that seemed to know the way.

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April 16, 2001

We took our time this morning leaving the comfort of bed, and then slowly made our way to the Protestant-owned Garden Tomb. Even though its authenticity (as the site of Christ's crucifixion, burial, and resurrection) is largely denied by scholars, somehow it seemed very fitting to us to bask there in the sunshine following Resurrection Sunday.

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April 14, 2001

We returned to Zababdeh for "Sabt in-Nour" - Saturday of Light, the Easter vigil of Holy Saturday. The service began at 8:00 in darkness as the simple light of a candle entered the sanctuary.

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April 13, 2001

The procession then headed to the village's Christian cemetery, where the cross was set for the night. Elizabeth noted the large number of people who gathered at family gravesides and weeped and mourned demonstratively over the departed.

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April 11, 2001

We headed off to Bethlehem today, giving Marthame's family a chance to experience first-hand what life under occupation is like, as they crossed over a blockaded road to meet our waiting taxi.

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April 9, 2001

We traveled the Via Dolorosa, visiting both the impressive churches along the way (like the Church of Flaggelation with its impressive ceiling artwork of the crown of thorns) and the small chapels that simply mark one of the Stations of the Cross.

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April 7, 2001

We continued our rounds of the village, discovering that people are getting ready for Palm Sunday tomorrow (in Arabic, "'Eid ash-Sha’aniin" - literally, the festival of olive branches).

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March 27, 2001

While Marthame watched the mechanic at work, two Palestinian soldiers pulled up and asked the mechanic questions about him: "Is he Jewish? A settler? An Israeli?"

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