April 13, 2001

Good Friday Mass at the Zababdeh’s Latin Church of Visitation.

There were two Good Friday services at the Latin (Roman Catholic) church today (called "Sad Friday" in Arabic). In the morning, the Latin faithful gathered - as they did every Friday during Lent - for a Stations of the Cross walk around the church. Since the church is surrounded by the school, this meant going around and through the school for the fourteen stations. In the afternoon, beginning at 4pm, was the large service. The whole worship was centered around readings and chantings of scripture passages. Many, many beautiful voices, but the highlight was one particularly moving and very Eastern piece. Three men sang the gospel passage (John 19-20) together, taking different parts. Tremendously powerful.

On Good Friday, the procession of the cross ends at the village’s cemetery.

As the large crucifix was brought out, people came forward to kiss it. We mistakenly assumed this would be in place of the eucharist, since there is traditionally no mass on Good Friday. Instead, bread was distributed, but there were no words of institution since it was taken from the reserved sacrament. Lying on a large table in front of the altar was a large cross, and as Abuna Louis shrouded it in incense, girls sprayed perfume - a symbol of preparation for burial.

The procession then headed to the village's Christian cemetery, where the cross was set for the night. Elizabeth noted the large number of people who gathered at family gravesides and weeped and mourned demonstratively over the departed. While some of the service was new and strange to us, we were both very moved by its beauty and power.

Marthame’s mom blows out the candle on her (early) birthday ice cream.

Afterwards, we made a fast dash in the rental car down to Tel Aviv to meet up with Marthame's family for dessert and birthday celebrations (Mom and Dad's days are just around the corner) before their early, early, early morning flight tomorrow. A busy day, but worth the trip.