April 11, 2001 — Mudeif Productions

*Marthame’s family navigating the familiar roadblocks.*

We headed off to Bethlehem today, giving Marthame's family a chance to experience first-hand what life under occupation is like, as they crossed over a blockaded road to meet our waiting taxi. Unfortunately, our taxi drivers were under the impression that we were big money tourists ready to be theirs for the next five hours - shopping, ferrying, etc. - and were noticeably disappointed when we asked to be dropped off and would call them when we were ready to leave.

We headed first to the Church of the Nativity, whose grotto was more crowded than any time - including Christmas - since we've visited. We met up with a couple of Zababdeh friends (of course) who are studying to be tour guides at Bethlehem University. The tour guides waiting around the Nativity Church had to be informed that a fourth guide (Marthame as #3) would be a bit unnecessary.

We visited the Bethlehem Museum, getting a glimpse at life over the last few centuries in Bethlehem, before hiring a taxi out to Mar Saba Monastery. We had been told that they would only let Orthodox Christians in (and we knew they would only let men in), so we led with our Orthodox Zababdeh friend. Marthame also removed his clerical collar so as not to confuse the issue. In the end, all of the men were permitted inside, including our Muslim driver. This monastery, built in the 6th century by 5000 pilgrims following St. Saba into the wilderness, stands on the edge of the Kidron Valley, overlooking the Kidron River. There are now only fourteen monks, most of them from Greece, taking care of its pristine monastic life-style. Most of the visitors these days are Greeks themselves. Within the monastery is a church which contains the body of St. Saba (after its return from Venice by the Catholic church in the 1960s). Overlooking the river, you can see the caves where St. Saba and his followers once lived out their monastic life. It was well-worth the trip, even for Marthame's mom and sister who had to wait outside for our male-bonding.

We took a quick walk through Bethlehem's Souq (market) before heading back to Jerusalem. Once there, Marthame, his sister, and his mom headed off to the Protestant Garden Tomb, run by the British, and purported to potentially be the site of the crucifixion and resurrection. They do emphasize, however, the central tenet of Christianity - "He is not here. He is risen." This could stand as some words of correction for those of us who use the term "Holy Land" so freely.

We wandered our way back through the old Souq, marveling at Alecia's ability to bargain, before joining friends in the New City for some dessert and conversation.