October 16, 2003

Marthame noticed with amusement that the computer error messages always focus on possible problems within the computer or modem - never suggesting that the problem might be related to military incursions or faulty regional infrastructure due to the latter.

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October 14, 2003

The priests of Zababdeh are taking good care of Marthame the bachelor in Elizabeth's extended absence from here. Fr. Aktham has issued an open invitation for lunch until Elizabeth returns, and Fr. Thomas and Fr. Firas have invited Marthame over on several different occasions to fill in the gaps in his stomach.

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October 13, 2003

Our host talked about the Spring 2002 incursions: she showed us the bullet holes and broken stones of her home, how all her windows were shattered, how she was staying in one interior room, afraid to move about for fear of being shot. "The tanks were right there," she said, pointing at the street just below her balcony.

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October 12, 2003

Marthame joined with two English teachers from the University in a trip up to Jalame to visit native son Nasser Abu Farha. Abu Farha is currently working on his PhD at the University of Wisconsin on the possibility of a long-lasting solution to the conflict here. It has sprung into a grassroots organization. To sit with him was a pleasure, to hear a man committed to real peace, who isn't afraid to speak the truth - to whatever community - and to both challenge myths and get to the root causes of the conflict.

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October 11, 2003

The "road" was the roughest Elizabeth had ever been on in Palestine; often she was convinced we were about to roll over - sometimes to the side, sometimes forward. Elizabeth remembered that the last time she was in Nablus, a university student said a friend of hers died in a car accident in the hills, trying to get to school. Thank God we arrived safely.

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October 10, 2003

Andrea and Marthame went to Tubas in the morning to film church and Sylvia, one of our subjects there. A college student at An-Najah University in Nablus, she travels weekly across nearly impossible roads into that sealed-off city. We wanted to start her section off in her context, among the Christian minority of this village.

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October 8, 2003

Marthame waited for a few minutes with school children trying to go home, others simply trying to pass for one reason or another. The soldiers began to get rough with the crowd, shoving and grabbing children and older people. It wouldn't be long before somebody would lose their patience with all of this and it would turn uglier than it was, so Marthame retreated and started walking back towards Jerusalem.

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October 7, 2003

We tried to cross the bridge after our flight, but were informed it was closed because of Jewish holidays. No doubt the Israeli attack near Damascus will set things back throughout the region. We were initially told the bridge was closed until Friday, a time loss we couldn't suffer, but this turned out to be nothing more than rumor.

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October 6, 2003

After a couple hours on the road towards Cairo, passing green fields irrigated by the Nile, we spent the afternoon and evening going around town. Cairo is a world apart, buzzing and teeming with crowded, dusty, noisy life.

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October 5, 2003

We made our way to the Saray Presbyterian Church in Alexandria to share in worship with Pastor Rizk and the rest of the community there. It is a joy to get to share in Presbyterian worship again. The sermon was in both English and Arabic for everyone's benefit.

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October 2, 2003

Alexandria is a waterfront city, which means that underground burial was odd business. Water levels beneath the ground rose high enough to do their damage through the centuries, and the high humidity left remains which disintegrated into dust when simply touched by those excavating the site.

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September 26, 2003

For three years the University has been trying to get work visas for its foreign faculty. No dice. So every three months (or less) they have to leave and come back in, hoping to get another three month tourist visa at the border. Once this was standard procedure for many organizations and NGOs. However, now, tourist visas are harder to get if you in any way resemble a peace activist (young, single, carrying a backpack).

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