October 13, 2003

This morning, Elizabeth and Andrea went to An-Najah University at 8:00 to meet Sylvia and film her in her pharmacy laboratory class. The crowded class was all women (apparently very few men study pharmacy), and our friend the only Christian. In the bright sunny lab, our friend with her curly black locks floated about in a swirling a sea of white lab coats and white hijabs.

The topic for the day was pregnancy tests, and the room erupted in shy giggles when the teacher asked for urine samples. Eventually, a sample was secured, and the students set about their work. After it was determined that the donor was not pregnant, class ended.

We three went to the cafeteria for a cup of coffee before going to University administration to get an interview from the PR officer. He described the many difficulties of continuing education in the face of Occupation as well as how he sees students transforming injustices against them into challenges which strengthen their character and their resolve to succeed.

After the interview, we descended to the University sport "field" (blacktop) and met up with a student also from Tubas who is studying to be a sport teacher. We found her dribbling a basketball, oblivious to the fact that she was the only female out there, surrounded by young men playing soccer or sitting around waiting to play or just watching. Elizabeth was happy to get a basketball in her hands again and shot around with our friends, while Andrea, a real soccer player (1999 IL/WI all-conference team), kicked the ball around and took goal shots with the guys. Beneficiaries of Title IX, we grew up knowing sports were for us, too, and enjoyed playing on teams with other girls - teams which received funding and support. Anyway, there ain't no Title IX here, and it shows. Some astonishment was apparent when Andrea repeatedly nailed goal shots (scaring the goalie a bit) and Elizabeth kept making basketball shots around the key. The reaction wasn't anything either of us hadn't felt in the States, it was just stronger. Soon a passel of other female sports students showed up, lined up and did some calisthenics. A competitive sport team is probably something none of them ever have or ever will experience, and that made us sad.

Delicious maqloube is always a treat!

We left the University to meet friends for a lunch invitation at the home of a member of the Anglican parish. Delicious eggplant and meat maqlube and good fellowship were in store for us. Our host talked about the Spring 2002 incursions: she showed us the bullet holes and broken stones of her home, how all her windows were shattered, how she was staying in one interior room, afraid to move about for fear of being shot. "The tanks were right there," she said, pointing at the street just below her balcony. Sobering to imagine how people coped with the reality of that time, and how they continue to cope with its repercussions and memories.

Back on the ranch in Zababdeh, today was supposed to herald the arrival of the Presbyterian Church (USA) delegation in Zababdeh. Marthame stayed in touch with them by telephone, getting their status. They finally arrived at Jalame, the only possible checkpoint for them to pass through. No such luck today - the only things passing from Israel into the West Bank were Israeli military, Israeli settlers, and Israeli goods to be sold to Palestinians. The soldiers did allow Marthame to walk up to the checkpoint to confer with the group, quite the anti-climax after all of the time spent planning and arranging.

We have another group coming next week, and two the week after that, so we'll have to see what happens. Ugh.

oct03Mudeif Office