June 16, 2002

The soldier who stopped us spoke very little English, but was very good at pointing and shouting. He flipped through our passports, and looked at our cellphone, asking, "you have in Jenin?" With his middle finger he then thumped Marthame's throat, on his clergy tab, saying, "What this?" How fresh! Finally, he handed us our passports - "take...go." It takes all kinds.

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June 15, 2002

The town was deadly still - no lights, save from the University, making the stars plain to view; no sounds, save the barking of the dogs and the distinct rumble of an Israeli tank.

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June 14, 2002

In the afternoon, Marthame met Abuna To'mie Daoud at the Greek Orthodox Church for 5:00 prayers. Twice a day, in the morning and evening, he prays at the church in Zababdeh, usually accompanied by one or two of the congregation. It's a discipline that he keeps faithfully.

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June 13, 2002

Today was every bit a reminder of the hardships, though - the Israeli army is in Tubas today, where they've instituted a curfew. None of the teachers could come. What a day for a party.

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June 11, 2002

We sat out on the porch eating supper and listening to the evening sounds of the city: helicopters, gunfire, the usual. We hope tonight isn't the night either.

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June 10, 2002

A local engineer shared our walk, talking about his nearly twenty years living, studying, and working in Texas and West Virginia. Like so many others, he returned to his homeland with the onset of Oslo, believing that finally peace and independence were on the way to Palestine. Now, he and his wife and kids are stuck here, with little work and little hope.

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June 9, 2002

Every incursion brings some more destruction - sometimes it seems rather arbitrary, like the busted up pedestrian crossing sign. And every departure means more straightening up.

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June 7, 2002

All eyes were on the skies and the constant flares fluttering off to the West. The Israeli army had re-entered Jenin and had also gone to the nearby village of Jaba. The talk in the streets was that they would come to Zababdeh tonight, but fear has a way of multiplying itself beyond reality.

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June 6, 2002

Because of the Israel re-incursion into Jenin, the two busses from there and beyond (and the students and teachers therein) didn’t come. We continued with exams for the rest of the kids - the Jenin students will have to catch up when it opens up again.

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June 5, 2002

People here are tired of the violence, tired of the coming and going of the Israeli army, tired of being unemployed and poor, tired of having no freedom of movement.

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June 4, 2002

We shared some Damascus sweets and Iraqi dates with our fellow teachers who were both glad to see us and jealous of our mobility and ability to travel places they cannot go.

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May 31, 2002

Reflecting on the question of proselytism, he called us in the West to recognize that Islam is a reality to be understood, not ignored. As such, we in the Church must find our language for speaking with Muslims and sharing our faith - conversion is the work of the Holy Spirit, but proclamation and witness are ours.

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May 30, 2002

Many were troubled by outsiders coming in to change Muslim hearts, failing, and leaving the local church to clean up the mess and bear the brunt of resentment.

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