May 31, 2002

The Greek Patriarch of Antioch, Ignatius IV.

Our first visit this morning was with the Greek Patriarch of Antioch and all the East. When the European countries partitioned the Middle East, Antioch became part of Turkey - it remains disputed between the two countries, which means that the Patriarchate has moved out of necessity. Meeting with him was a truly powerful experience - a humble, theological, faithful, impressive figure. Reflecting on the question of proselytism, he called us in the West to recognize that Islam is a reality to be understood, not ignored. As such, we in the Church must find our language for speaking with Muslims and sharing our faith - conversion is the work of the Holy Spirit, but proclamation and witness are ours. As such, our whole language must change.

We continue to run across huge American cars here.

We could've listened to him dispense wisdom for hours, but we had another important appointment to keep - this one with the Grand Mufti of Syria, Mufti Kuftaro, for Friday lessons. The Middle East Council of Churches had set this up with the aging Islamic leader who has made his career out of bridging Muslim-Christian relations. We met with his son as the congregation prayed, hearing about the mosque's benevolence society and its work. The women headed up to the second floor with the other women while the men headed down front to sit with the Mufti. He spoke as we listened to translation via headphones (unfortunately not very clear for the women), speaking about the need for Muslims to follow the way of peace faithfully. It was mostly a word of folk-wisdom from our perspective, but people were hanging on his every word.

The Grand Mosque, with our American Christian delegation seated up front in a place of honor.

After he had spoken for an hour, one of our group was invited to speak. Rev. Dr. Gary Burge, Professor of New Testament at Wheaton College and the President of Evangelicals for Middle East Understanding, had been asked to share a message to the people. He did so, preaching on the story of the Good Samaritan (Luke 10). As worlds collide these days, the need to break down barriers and work past stereotypes and preconceptions is more necessary than ever. It was truly an unique moment - people hanging on Dr. Burge's every word, grateful for the opportunity to break down boundaries and to find ways to forge a future together - not boiling down our distinct faiths so that they become bland versions of the original, but finding the places of contact such that we can live together in peace and understanding.

The Melkite Patriarchate church in Damascus.

From there, we headed off to the Melkite Patriarchate. Centered in the Old City of Damascus, along the Street called Straight (the site of the scales falling from St. Paul's eyes - Acts 9), this is the head of the Greek Catholic church throughout the world. Unfortunately, the Patriarch was in the States opening a new church there. We met with one of his bishops, a great treat for us - and especially for the Melkite priest in our midst. The bishop gave him an altar cloth, newly blessed by the Patriarch. Each cloth contains a relic, meaning that when the congregation celebrates the eucharist, they are in communion with the Patriarch as well as the communion of saints. We shared with the bishop our work in the Jenin and Nablus areas, particularly with the Melkite communities.

Fr. James gleefully displays his altar cloth.

We visited the Church of the Patriarchate and noted its very high pulpit, reminiscent of John Calvin's old church in Geneva.

Marthame with Melkite Bishop.

As we prepared to leave, the bishop called Marthame over, handing him an altar cloth like the one he gave to the Melkite priest. "This is for you," he said.

"This means you are in communion," said the priest. It was a very moving moment, one hinting at a rich and beautiful unity of the Church.

A familiar hymn board in the Presbyterian church.

Damascus at night.

We headed down Straight Street, winding our way through the narrow streets and past the relic American cars until we arrived at the Presbyterian church, meeting with Pastor Boutros. We had a wonderful meeting together, heading up to get a mountain view of Damascus before going back to our hotel for dinner. This meal was in the rotating restaurant - this hotel has more restaurants than all of Jenin.

may02Mudeif Office