December, 2003
We had an interesting time getting through the initial security checks, being told that the olive oil and olives we were bringing from Zababdeh were not allowed by Lufthansa - more because of the mess than anything else.
We walked the long, dusty roads of the ancient Nabatean city, fascinated by the smallest little turn in the road and the carvings and niches along the way.
Marthame breathed a huge sigh of relief once we were out of Israel, and smiled a huge grin as he saw a tumbleweed roll by on the Jordanian side.
We spent the rest of the day at home, as friends and neighbors came by to wish us good-bye. It was a good way to accomplish the hard task of saying farewell to a whole village.
The morality tale reinforces that being Christian is more than just having "Christian" printed on your ID - more than getting a day off or special treatment on Easter and Christmas.
We were sad to hear of his death, but gave thanks for his passion for life and ministry.
Elizabeth went to the Latin Church this morning long enough to get some final footage of one of our film subjects. She then joined Marthame at the Orthodox service.
Fr. Aktham took a moment to thank us, and give us farewell presents: Elizabeth got a hand-embroidered dress, which she slipped on over her clothes. People joked that if she wore that when we arrive in the States, security wouldn't let us enter the country. And Fr. Aktham has arranged for Marthame to get an 'oud, the traditional big-bellied Arab stringed instrument that he has coveted for so long.
The best news we've heard in three and a half years: Anis got his visa! Anis had received a full four-year scholarship to study at North Park University in Chicago.
In the absence of any true democracy (both under the Israeli military occupation and as subjects of a Palestinian Authority which has little ability or desire to hold elections), this will have to do.
We are being berated by everyone in town to make sure that we visit them before we leave.
On the way to visit them, two tanks stood in our way. A three car procession (one Israeli-plated, one Palestinian-plated, and one with diplomatic plates) of clergy drew attention, but thankfully not fire, from the soldiers. They were kind enough to raise the tank turret so that we could pass under and let us through coming and going.
Marthame went to Jenin to settle accounts today, hoping to finish everything in one fell swoop. However, the false idols of Middle Eastern bureaucracy were conspiring against him.
After a bit (and of course coffee), we went to see Im Nabil. Living alone at 80 in perhaps Zababdeh's oldest stone house (with Samaritan mason work and decoration), she always astonishes us with her sharp mind, fantastic English, and interesting stories.
We have had several warm sunny days, drying up the mud and warming up the land. So after lunch today we went for a walk, something we haven't done in ages.
Marthame worked on editing and fixing the misbehaving computer (sometimes it seems as though the equipment is conspiring against us!) and then went to choir practice in the evening to do some more filming.
During the announcements Fr. Aktham reminded the congregation that we are leaving soon. He gave an affectionate and warm pre-farewell farewell. We will really miss this place.
This evening, we made a few visits, knowing that there are many many people we want to see, and not that many days left.
Marthame and Fr. Firas went to the Melkite church to complete his interview for the film, to take a tour of the church grounds, and to just catch up on the latest news.
