Fr. Iyad was there with his summertime volunteers from the States, members of National Presbyterian Church in Washington, DC.
Read MoreThey're both from Gaza and neither has been home in years - Gazans are no longer given West Bank permissions, so a trip home can mean no exit out of the Strip. One is going home tomorrow, the other will be going to continue his studies in London. He won't be able to see his family before he leaves, though, because he won't be able to leave Gaza once he goes back. Gazans seem to be bearing the brunt of the injustices of occupation and siege.
Read MoreMarthame and Fr. Fadi co-officiated the service, assisted by three altar-girls. The text for the morning included the parables of the lost sheep and coin, and Marthame preached about how they illustrate the economy of heaven as something very different from the economy of earth - not bad for last minute.
Read MoreWe went straight to the St. Andrew's Anglican Church to see Fr. Fadi, born and raised in Zababdeh, and brother of Fr. Firas, our good friend and Zababdeh's Melkite priest.
Read MoreBefore dawn, the family patriarch went off to the Mediterranean to go fishing. He came back about the time we were waking up, carrying six kilos of fresh fish - we know what we're having for lunch!
Read MoreWhile we waited, an Israeli army jeep stood at the main traffic circle, then drove back past a couple of times. An armored personnel carrier rolled through town, too, as normally as if this was the afternoon traffic. It's amazing what folks can get used to.
Read MoreBy the 1920s, especially under British Mandate rule, the Old City had largely taken the segregated form we are familiar with today: the Jewish Quarter, Muslim Quarter, Christian Quarter, and the Armenian Quarter.
Read MoreA quick taxi ride got us to the Popular Arts Center in al-Bireh (Ramallah's twin city) in time to catch another documentary film. Tonight's offering was "What's Next?" by a local filmmaker about the Ramallah incursion last year.
Read MoreFinding the simplest things can be daunting here. Marthame left the University after class, headed to the village of Birzeit with two things to buy: shoelaces and a phone cord.
Read MoreThe roundabout trek still took three and a half hours, though, but we made it in the end.
Read MoreIn the evening, Fr. Firas, the Melkite priest, came over with his family for a visit. He has asked Marthame to pray part of the liturgy tomorrow. In Arabic. Chanted.
Read MoreWe were awoken at about 1:30 in the morning by an Israeli helicopter flying low through the valley.
Read MoreWhen we arrived at the checkpoint, a furious-looking Ethiopian soldier barked at the driver and demanded our IDs. He examined them with all the scrutiny of a Vegas dealer dealing blackjack, slammed the door, and sent us on our way. Many in the van were frustrated that we were forced to wait for such a ridiculous security check. Others were grateful the check was quick and painless.
Read MoreMost of the folks were coming the other way, returning from work or errands in Ramallah to their homes in Surda, Abu Qash, Birzeit, and beyond. Donkey and horse carriage rides were being offered for fifteen shekels. Old women in traditional dress, couples carrying newborns, and young men with their cellphones all shared the commute.
Read MoreThe individual attention is good, but it'll be nice to have other students with whom to share the experience!
Read MoreBirzeit University was our home two years ago when we first studied Arabic formally. Now we've returned to do more study, this time digging into standard written Arabic. We've done well at colloquial, but remain close to illiterate when it comes to reading and writing.
Read MoreAbu Qash, a village just next to Birzeit, will be our home. Star Mountain is a rehabilitation center on the edge of Abu Qash run by the Moravian Church.
Read MoreWe've made it "home," arriving in Tel Aviv this afternoon before catching the shared taxi to Jerusalem.
Read MoreA few photos from our vacation to visit with friends and family in Chicago (by way of Spain).
Read MoreIt was a fine way to put the absurdities of this place behind us for a while.
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