July 3, 2003

Jonathan with one of our friends from Birzeit University.

After class, we met up with our friend Jonathan from the Arab-American University (who's studying at Birzeit this summer, too). We caught a shared taxi from Birzeit towards Qalandia, quickly arriving at a checkpoint on the far edge of town.

We waited there for nearly an hour as soldiers checked vehicles. Dust rolled into our hot van, waiting in a long loud line, two and sometimes three cars wide as drivers tried to cut in line to get through sooner. Tempers were short, as was order. The soldiers made a shift change in the middle of it all.

When we arrived at the checkpoint, a furious-looking Ethiopian soldier barked at the driver and demanded our IDs. He examined them with all the scrutiny of a Vegas dealer dealing blackjack, slammed the door, and sent us on our way. Many in the van were frustrated that we were forced to wait for such a ridiculous security check. Others were grateful the check was quick and painless.

We arrived in Qalandia and found a shared taxi headed north towards Jenin. Marthame struck up a conversation with the driver, not recognizing him from our many journeys along this path. He works in Jerusalem, and when he goes back home to Tamoun (just south of Tubas), he takes passengers with him to pick up extra fares. The heat was blistering. Rolling down the windows simply brought in a blast of hot air, not relieving in the least. Closing the windows was worse, though - stifling and brutal.

Finding this driver turned out to be a real blessing. His fluent Hebrew and his good nature brought smiles and jokes from the soldiers. We were through quickly.

At one checkpoint, the soldier asked Marthame, "how long have you been here?"

"Three years."

"Really? Three years? Are you trying to get Israeli residence?"

"No..."

"Because I know some people, if you want..."

Quite a difference.

We arrived in Zababdeh, and word spread quickly that we were back. We visited with Fr. Aktham and the new Deacon Imad in the evening. They've been busy with summer camps already. We also got caught up on the local news. In the two weeks we've been gone, two young men from Zababdeh have been arrested. One of them, the mayor's son, is the older brother of one of our students, and the other is Fr. Thomas' nephew. They're both being held at Salem Detention Center. That brings the total to five Zababdeh residents currently in detention - three Muslims and two Christians. Welcome home.