While we waited, an Israeli army jeep stood at the main traffic circle, then drove back past a couple of times. An armored personnel carrier rolled through town, too, as normally as if this was the afternoon traffic. It's amazing what folks can get used to.
Read MoreBy the 1920s, especially under British Mandate rule, the Old City had largely taken the segregated form we are familiar with today: the Jewish Quarter, Muslim Quarter, Christian Quarter, and the Armenian Quarter.
Read MoreA quick taxi ride got us to the Popular Arts Center in al-Bireh (Ramallah's twin city) in time to catch another documentary film. Tonight's offering was "What's Next?" by a local filmmaker about the Ramallah incursion last year.
Read MoreFinding the simplest things can be daunting here. Marthame left the University after class, headed to the village of Birzeit with two things to buy: shoelaces and a phone cord.
Read MoreThe roundabout trek still took three and a half hours, though, but we made it in the end.
Read MoreIn the evening, Fr. Firas, the Melkite priest, came over with his family for a visit. He has asked Marthame to pray part of the liturgy tomorrow. In Arabic. Chanted.
Read MoreWe were awoken at about 1:30 in the morning by an Israeli helicopter flying low through the valley.
Read MoreWhen we arrived at the checkpoint, a furious-looking Ethiopian soldier barked at the driver and demanded our IDs. He examined them with all the scrutiny of a Vegas dealer dealing blackjack, slammed the door, and sent us on our way. Many in the van were frustrated that we were forced to wait for such a ridiculous security check. Others were grateful the check was quick and painless.
Read MoreMost of the folks were coming the other way, returning from work or errands in Ramallah to their homes in Surda, Abu Qash, Birzeit, and beyond. Donkey and horse carriage rides were being offered for fifteen shekels. Old women in traditional dress, couples carrying newborns, and young men with their cellphones all shared the commute.
Read MoreThe individual attention is good, but it'll be nice to have other students with whom to share the experience!
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