November 15, 2003

On November 15, 1988, the PLO, in exile in Tunis, declared Palestinian independence. And so annually it is celebrated, in spite of the absence of independence or freedom here. Oh the irony.

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November 8, 2003

Early this morning we heard the death knell ring from the Latin church bell tower. A solemn, lonely sound. It wasn't until the afternoon, when Marthame went to the church, that we knew why. Fr. Boutros passed away. He was a Latin priest from Zababdeh who served many years in Beit Sahour.

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November 6, 2003

Late this morning, Marthame went to Jenin (which has been open the past few days) to run errands. Our telephone, cellphone, bank account, and other services will need to be closed when we leave, and he went to all their offices to see what we needed to do in advance. We hope Jenin will be open when we need to close these accounts for good.

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November 4, 2003

Marthame went to the daily prayers at the Orthodox Church today to record the chorus. They are interested in creating a cassette, we're helping them and using the music on the film.

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October 31, 2003

The other half left around 8:30 heading to Jayyous to see the impact the Wall has had on that community, cut off from their land, from their former day labor jobs in Israel, and from the West Bank.

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October 30, 2003

Today a British group was scheduled to visit. We advised them that the Jalame checkpoint was their best bet, having a marginally better track record (of letting foreigners pass) than Hamra. Astoundingly, they were allowed in (but not their tour guide or their bus driver, both of whom are Palestinians with Jerusalem IDs, and so are technically not allowed to travel in the Occupied Territories - except of course East Jerusalem where they live).

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October 27, 2003

This afternoon a group from Chicago was due to come visit us, but they were refused entry at Hamra checkpoint. "This is not a place for tourists. If you know others on their way, tell them not to come," was the message from the soldiers.

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October 26, 2003

The Italian, who had just done two stints in Afghanistan, said she was exhausted by this place. The stress and daily difficulties in Jenin far outweigh what she saw in Afghanistan - sobering thought.

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October 25, 2003

After twenty minutes, we arrived at the checkpoint. And we were told to wait. Beside us were two UN vehicles and an ambulance, and on the other side another ambulance - all of them also told to wait. Marthame and the driver went to talk with a soldier standing on the tank. He said, "OK. Bring the bus forward." We boarded the bus, just as a jeep came to supplement the tank. We crept forward. "Hey you!" barked a loudspeaker from the jeep. "I'm talking to you! Back up!" Marthame moved to step off the bus, at which point the tank's gun barrel pivoted towards the bus. Marthame got back on.

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October 23, 2003

The Jenin school bus tried to leave in the morning, but was held up at the checkpoint for four and a half hours. No intervention - whether through the military coordinating office, the Latin Patriarchate, the Italian nuns in Jenin - could get the bus through. The kids have missed tons of school this year, more than kids should be expected to bear. At 11:30, they turned around and headed home - too late to catch the taxis through the olive groves and on to school.

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October 22, 2003

"The solution is with God. He can reconcile us. We need to live in peace. I've lost my son, and a Jewish man loses his son. What has been gained? The solution is with God and God alone."

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October 20, 2003

This morning, Elizabeth and Andrea said sad farewells to the lovely people at the Anglican compound. We enjoyed a wonderful time with them, and will miss them greatly.

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October 19, 2003

The amount of firepower needed to destroy these ancient solid stone buildings must have been unbelievable. No wonder our friends living near the Old City were so traumatized.

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