September 30, 2001 — Mudeif Productions

*The crosses atop Zababdeh’s Orthodox church.*

As we continue our moving around from one church to another in Zababdeh this year, our intentional ecumenical ministry, we are learning more - in particular - about St. George's Orthodox Church. Other people in the village are slowly learning what we are doing and not wondering when they don't see us in church for two or three Sundays. As Marthame sat down in the pew, he was motioned up to the chancel by one of the lay leaders. The service is one of much singing and praying, most of it done by six or seven lay people. It is very beautiful and mystical - the feel is quite ancient as a result. The homily was delivered by one of the lay leaders today on the subject of baptism. There is a real dearth of study of Orthodoxy in American seminaries, so all of our knowledge is coming by way of our experiences here, rather than anything more academic - thus, it is coming slowly, as a process of discovery. The communion is interesting - as people process forward, Abuna To'mie feeds them a mixture of bread and wine by a spoon. Even infants receive (despite their kicking and screaming), which is different from both the Latin and Anglican churches here.

Today was also the commemoration of a death - this is done seven and forty days after, as well as after six and twelve months. As the ceremony finishes, Abuna says, "Allah yerhamhum" (God have mercy on them), to which the congregation responds, "T'eish" (may you live) - the traditional greeting of mourning. Then everyone takes a piece from a plateful of sugar that has been decorated with crosses - not sure what the meaning is, but perhaps there's some sense of sharing a common meal that is as sweet as heavenly fellowship.

We've learned that about sixteen Palestinians have been killed in anniversary demonstrations marking the Intifada - and now the Israeli cabinet is giving Arafat forty-eight hours to implement the cease-fire. Let's get this straight: the Israeli army has killed 16 and is saying that Arafat needs to snap into action. Nope, still doesn't make any sense.

After lunch with good friends in town, we headed out to the fields to visit our shepherd friend and his family - it's been a while since we've visited him. Good to share in Bedouin hospitality. He had finished a year of university education before the first Intifada interrupted his life and changed his course. Now he lives as a shepherd in the shadow of the new University here - sadly ironic. He clearly wants to return to study, and his mind is sharp - he spends all day thinking. We sat next to their tent under the full moon with him and his family. As his children fell asleep in the cool night air, we drank tea and ate goat cheese. In the distance, we could hear the sounds of Zababdeh - the call to prayer, the church bells, the celebratory sounds of a wedding, the electrical generator - it was equal parts reassuring and peaceful.