July 18, 2003 — Mudeif Productions

Early in the morning, we piled in the taxi and headed towards Salem. We were accompanying a family friend who was trying to get permission to get to the Galilee. We knew she would need permission from the Israelis, but we didn't know if the DCO (District Coordinating Office) was open on Fridays or not - usually, offices in Israel are closed for Saturday only (Friday only on the Palestinian side, with special exceptions on both for various religious communities).

We arrived at Salem DCO to find a giant gate in front of the military camp. The Wall is being built here, and with the gate closed, it appeared as though there was no passage. But the man working the bulldozer assured us we could enter by going around the gate - after first walking between the fence and the trench running parallel to it.

We decided Marthame would go first and inquire whether the office was open or not before taking it any further - the woman we were accompanying is sixty-five years old and didn't need such a passage for nothing. Marthame went and talked to the soldiers, who said they were sure it was open, but they'd need to see her in person. Elizabeth helped her around. The soldier examined her papers. "You'll need a permission from the office to pass."

"Yeah - that's why we're here."

"But the office is closed today."

Marthame tried to explain to the soldier why his perspective was a bit flawed - but as he explained it, his job was to check bags and IDs. The office's job was to deal with permissions. It wasn't his fault it was closed today and she couldn't get her permissions. There was nothing more to it than that, apparently.

*Burqin’s Church of the Ten Lepers is the fourth oldest site of Christian veneration in the world.*

We turned back, deciding to take a detour through Burqin, the village where our friend grew up, and visited the Church of the Ten Lepers there as well as paying some visits to family friends and relatives who still live there in the village's shrinking Christian community.

We returned to Zababdeh, filthy and tired from the Salem escapade, and walked home. Fr. Thomas' son grabbed us on the way, welcoming us back to Zababdeh, and informing us that Bishop Timothy was in town for a visit. We went up to see him and visit - he always has kind words and a warm welcome for us Protestants, as does Fr. Thomas. He was soon off, as were we, to get relief from the heat. It's brutal these days.