December 12, 2003

After Marthame vanquished the dishes, we went out this morning to visit some people. First, we went to say thank you to a neighbor who had dropped off some oil, olives, and dried mlukhiyye (tasty local greens). We chatted a bit, drank some coffee, and admired her lovely Christmas tree. Then we went next door, where little Julia and George are often playing with their grandfather on the front stoop, and where we have stopped many a time on our way to or from town to chat and drink coffee. We stepped inside and sat with them, watched George blow bubbles and Julia draw pictures. After a bit (and of course coffee), we went to see Im Nabil.  Living alone at 80 in perhaps Zababdeh's oldest stone house (with Samaritan mason work and decoration), she always astonishes us with her sharp mind, fantastic English, and interesting stories. She lived in Baghdad for several decades (in fact was married in one of the Presbyterian churches there) and then lived and worked many years in Jordan.  In spite of our best attempts to refuse, she gave us msakhan to take home.  We went back home, ate until our bellies were full, and worked. In the evening a good friend who's just gotten in town from Ramallah (four and a half hours on the road and at checkpoints) came by for a visit.