September 29, 2002 — Mudeif Productions

This morning we worshiped at the Latin Church of Visitation. It's been almost a month since we've been there on a Sunday morning, having spent one of the past Sundays in Jenin. When the Melkite Church re-opens (n'sha'allah - God willing), that'll take another Sunday out of our worship schedule. But it's wonderful to participate in the life of all of these congregations. We're very fortunate. Fr. John, one of the priests at the Latin Seminary in Beit Jala, delivered the homily this morning. He's up in the area checking on the Seminary students who are back in the village this year due to its temporary closure (due to the dangerous situation and the fact that their students from Jordan had so many problems getting visas from the Israeli authorities). Marthame and Deacon Firas served communion together - Presbyterian, Roman Catholic, and Melkite all leading worship.

*Fr. Aktham exploring the unearthed artifacts.*

We then went with Fr. Aktham on an archaeological adventure to a small collection of houses called a village just off the main road. Archaeology having severe political consequences in these parts, we can't say much about it except to say that there were no distinct identifying markings on the artifacts (crosses, stars of David, Arabic calligraphy), making the political ramifications a little less worrisome. The amount of stuff around here is staggering, though - civilization after civilization have passed through, leaving their mark. Some times, such artifacts turn out to be Christian from the Byzantine period, and the Muslim population is aware of this deep history and thus will often contact the nearby priest to come and survey it. There's also, of course, the hope of financial compensation, as was made clear to us as one of the residents showed his collection of olive oil lamps - some possibly Roman, some Byzantine, some Islamic. We didn't pay the "special price," but were given a couple ancient (and beautiful) glass beads anyway.

Returning to Zababdeh, we made good on a lunch invitation. With our archaeological detour, we were late, and the family had already dined - in fact, some of them were taking their afternoon naps. That was of little importance, though, and no matter how much we resisted, we were forced to stay and eat - rice, meat, and okra, in a tomato broth. We don't easily tire of other people cooking for us.

The news was bringing stories of the Israeli pull-back from Arafat's compound at the urging of the White House. Such things don't do much to demythologize the US' role as power broker here. We're looking forward to seeing a positive impact on the lives of ordinary people - for that, it seems we'll wait a long time for White House intervention.

We had a few minutes to rest before a friend's wedding in the afternoon. The wedding was scheduled to begin at 4:00. Even then, as the sun was beginning to go down, it was stiflingly hot. In true Arab fashion, the bride arrived at 5. It was only our second wedding at the Orthodox Church - our first one was two years ago when Fr. Thomas' son was married (which was also the first time we had set foot in the church). Then, we stood at the back, not knowing what was appropriate. This time, Marthame took his place with camera up at the front. Our relationships with the clergy, as well as the excuse of the film project, have given us great access to events in the lives of the community. The most striking aspect of Orthodox weddings is the crowns that the bride and groom both wear - it is their coronation day, set in the context of the Biblical history of couples.

*The women sing and celebrate the newlyweds.*

Elizabeth went with the older women to the couple's new home. The groom's mother places a lemon leaf (which doesn't yellow with age) on the wall, a symbol of their eternal love. The women dance and sing in celebration, waiting for the couple to arrive - they join in the dancing soon after. There is also a lot of ululating and the traditional congratulatory rhyming poems. Elizabeth had one sung about her: "Elizabeth, you are very thin. You are as tall as a giraffe. Let's go to Nablus and eat knaffe." (in Arabic, it rhymes)

Elizabeth, inspired by being the pink poodle of the evening, sang her own verse: "I like you, ladies. I like you more than water." (trust us - it rhymes, too)

*Wedding celebrations are an intergenerational event.*

The party continued at the Latin Church hall, where there was singing and dancing - though not much, as is considered appropriate for a time of national mourning - as well as food for everyone. The traditional wedding meal is mansaaf, meat and rice with a spiced yogurt sauce. We don't easily tire of other people cooking for us.