May 5, 2002

Al-Masih Qam. Haqan Qam. (Christ is Risen. He is risen indeed)

One of the dozens of children dressed up for their Easter baptism.

We made it back to Zababdeh via our now-usual two taxi run - one from Nazareth to Jalame, the other from Jalame to Zababdeh. Tank treads were on the road, evidence of a late night visit through Zababdeh.

Bishop Marcuzzo baptizing a child at Zababdeh’s Catholic Church.

We arrived in time to join Abuna Aktham and the Latin Church of Visitation for Easter morning services. The Bishop of Nazareth, Boulos Marcuzzo, joined us this morning, as did two other priests of the Patriarchate. Marcuzzo is the bishop who came to Zababdeh last year for a visit and the Israeli army fired on his car. Fortunately, no such excitement this time; he (and we) arrived without incident.

Marthame stands with the Catholic clergy during Easter Mass.

In the Latin community, Easter is the day for baptisms, a potent symbol of the Resurrection. Twenty-one children were baptized today, one after another, following the Mass. It was fun to see all of the kids dressed in their newest, whitest clothes, accompanied by their extended families (which meant the church was almost as packed as it usually is for Sunday worship). After Bishop Marcuzzo anointed each of the children, they were brought forward one by one, held over the font, where water was poured over their heads - much more than a Presbyterian sprinkling. Not a single child left without being brought to tears.

Afterwards, everyone processes around the altar (lot of processing going on these days). We then joined the Bishop, as well as the Latin clergy from Zababadeh and Jenin, for a magnificent Easter feast. Traditional Arabic Mansaaf was followed by chicken and vegetables and, of course, the lamb. People make up for lost meat-eating time here in style.

Marthame stands with Fr. To’mie during the baptismal liturgy.

Our four-day marathon continued as we headed to the Orthodox Church for an early afternoon baptism. Unlike the Latins, the Orthodox do not do multiple-baptisms only (or mostly) on Easter. However, they do hold them as a separate service. There were many details to follow in the liturgy.

Fr. To’mie anoints young George before baptizing him.

Marthame stood with Abuna To'mie as the child's God-father held young George. Abuna blew on the child's forehead, as he and the family symbolically rejected Satan. Then a large copper basin was filled with cold water (Abuna was very specific about the temperature). A cup of blessed olive oil was put into the basin, but first young naked George was anointed: his eyes to see God's work, his nose to smell the scent of Christ, his mouth to speak God's wisdom, his ears to hear the word of Christ, his chest for the health of his body, his hands to do God's work, his feet to tread the head of the serpent (a reference to evil), his back to carry his cross.

Fr. To’mie submerges George into the baptismal waters.

Then the moment for which Orthodox baptisms are famous - young George was dunked into the water three times, a traumatic moment to say the least. Somehow, though, it seems fitting - first of all, that the child is (in the words of Paul - Romans 6) "buried with Christ" in baptism, and that the entry into the Christian community of faith is a jolting one. Abuna cut locks of hair from the front, back, and two sides of George's hair, blessing his head in the sign of the cross. Finally, one last procession to round out our week.

Fr. To’mie cuts a few locks from George’s hair.

An exhausted George, his baptismal ordeal now finished.

We visited with Abuna To'mie later in the evening to bring him the candles and greetings from Bishop Timotheus. He was appreciative. His wife asked why Marthame didn't just become an Orthodox priest, especially after such a week. We said it'd be better to bring the rest of the Presbyterian Church with us rather than abandoning them to their Protestant ways like lost sheep. They laughingly agreed we should stay and suffer with our Calvinist brothers and sisters.