May 25, 2003

This morning, Marthame preached at St. Andrew's Church of Scotland. The pastor is out of town, and had arranged with Marthame to fill in. It was a real treat to worship in English again, and for Marthame to have the opportunity to preach again. (Even though late the night before he was heard muttering, "Why didn't I think to recycle?") Elizabeth unfortunately couldn't stay long at coffee hour as she had to get to the Anglican church in Ramallah by 12:30 to ride back to Zababdeh with Fr. Fadi. Fr. Fadi and his family were driving up for the baptism of his twin nephews (and soon-to-be godchildren), the twin sons of Fr. Firas, the Melkite priest in Zababdeh.

In a little over an hour, Elizabeth managed to get from West Jerusalem to Ramallah, find the church, and enjoy a cool beverage with the family. The trip was smooth and remarkably uneventful, taking only a little more than two hours, which gave Elizabeth the chance to clean up and rest before the baptism ceremony at 6:00. Bearing video camera equipment, Elizabeth arrived at the already-full Melkite church. Dressed in their best, people waited on wooden benches and plastic chairs, fanning themselves and waiting for the service to begin.

Without delay, Fr. Firas began the distinctly Eastern chanting of prayers which commenced the worship service. The baptismal liturgy began with the whole congregation turning around and renouncing Satan (get thee behind me). More people piled into the small sanctuary as the service progressed, and by the time the twin toddlers were being stripped, there wasn't room for more, and some peered in from the windows. Mid-way between the Roman Catholic gentle pouring of water on the forehead and Greek Orthodox repeated, vigorous full naked immersion, this baptism consisted of pouring water over the entire baby, semi-seated in the baptismal font. Much less of an ordeal than the Greek way, it still prompted plenty of wailing on the part of the babies. Once dried off, they calmed down as oil was anointed on many body parts (mouth to speak God's word, hands to do God's work, etc. etc.). And then four locks were cut from their hair, in the shape of a cross on their heads. At the end, people spilled out of the church onto the soon-to-be church courtyard to enjoy celebratory sweets and colas. Meanwhile, the family were trying to dress the boys in special baptismal suits, white tuxedos complete with tie and cummerbund. Elizabeth joined the extended family afterward, as they relaxed and had a barbecue. All in all, a beautiful joyful affair.

Meanwhile, back in Jerusalem, Marthame had a different schedule. He had lunch with several members of St. Andrew's, including two Palestinian women who live in West Jerusalem - the only two left from the pre-'48 Arab population of that area. Their homes are lovely Arab-style homes, as are the rest of the homes in the neighborhood - the only difference is that there are Arabs living in these two.

Outside Bethlehem’s Korean Cultural Center.

The interior of the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate holds some lovely gardens.

Marthame then caught a ride to Tantur, the checkpoint at the entrance to Bethlehem. From there, it was off to the Nativity Square and the desolate Church of the Nativity, the first time either of us has been there in a long, long time. Another member of St. Andrew's is a Korean Presbyterian pastor who has been living in Bethlehem for ten years. He and his family run a kindergarten and the Korean Cultural Center (quite the anomaly in Bethlehem). They're headed home for the summer, seeming somewhat burned out after passing the last three years in Bethlehem under frequent curfew. The Center was peppered by Israeli fire, which lessened once he hung the Korean flag out the window. They've had to close the Kindergarten over the last few years, too, since the economics are such that no one can pay.

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is rarely this empty, but no tourists means no crowds.

He finished off the day by visiting Bishop Timothy at the Orthodox Patriarchate, who is responsible for Tubas, Zababdeh, and Burqin. They talked about what possible role Western Christians could play in the Middle East. It's clear he appreciates our presence here.