May 19, 2003

Now that classes are over at the school, Elizabeth could take a Monday and Tuesday to go with Marthame to Ibillin. We set off around eight in the morning, along the well-beaten track to Jalame. At the border checkpoint, one of the soldiers asked where we were coming from. When we said Zababdeh, he asked, "Oh, how is Zababdeh these days?"

"It's fine. Do you know Zababdeh?"

"I've heard of it."

"We call it Zababdeh, DC. Like Washington, DC."

He liked that. We were soon through and on to meet our ride on the other side, arriving in Nazareth in short order, in time to share some time with fellow Presbyterians who will soon leave Nazareth after nearly a decade here to settle in Scotland. A friend of theirs was staying with them, and was intrigued by the possibility of visiting Zababdeh. As he told us, "I'm here to listen and learn. Wherever the Spirit leads, I will go."

"How'd you like to go to Zababdeh?"

"Sure," he said.

"You know it's in the West Bank."

One beat, two beats..."OK."

Some of Marthame’s students in the Church History class.

We made plans to return home together tomorrow. After a lovely lunch with other friends, it was soon time to head to Ibillin for class. Elizabeth sat in as Marthame lectured about the Eastern church during the time of the Reformation. Especially interesting was the dialogue that took place between Lutheran Reformers and the Greek Orthodox Patriarch - the Lutherans were seeking the blessing of the Eastern church to defend themselves against Rome. They didn't get it, but what they did get was a dose of probably the last pure Byzantine theology untouched by the theologies of Western Europe.

After, we spent the night with yet other friends in Shefa'amer, and debated sacramental theology into the wee hours.