May 12, 2002

The long, dusty commute on foot to leave Nablus for surrounding villages.

Marthame and Fr. Hossam left early for Zababdeh, leaving Nablus back for the village of Zawata, making the long trek back up the hill, across the military road, for the waiting taxis. The number of people filing into Nablus (the morning commute) was staggering - people dressed in their business best, struggling downhill, making their way between the donkeys bearing people or their bags, through the white dust, coming out on the other side coated with a thin layer of the stuff.

Last week, as Fr. Hossam returned to Nablus for Easter prayers, soldiers appeared on the military road. Three times the people commuting into town were forced to retreat back up the hill in what seemed like a twisted game of cat and mouse.

After a late night, an early morning, an empty stomach, a steep climb, and a winding road, Marthame needed to stop along the road a couple of times for - uh - personal moments. Needless to say, he didn't join Fr. Hossam as planned for morning worship, but spent the rest of the day recovering under Elizabeth's watchful eye. What's incredible is that Fr. Hossam makes this journey every week - twice!