April 28, 2002
Happy Palm Sunday. We're on the Orthodox calendar here, regardless of denomination, as a sign of Christian unity. The bells were ringing loud and clear this morning as people headed to church in the warm sunshine. Kids were dressed in their best clothes, carrying home-made "palms," sometimes actual palm leaves but more often than not olive branches tied together with roses or other flowers. Palm Sunday is a big deal here.
Before this Intifada and siege began nearly two years ago, most of Zababdeh would ride in busses to Jerusalem for the massive march from Bethpage into the Old City. Now, even if the roads were open, getting into Jerusalem is next to impossible for these people. Last year, the priests in Zababdeh coordinated a march through the village. But this year, we didn't even do that.
Wanting to see Fr. Hossam, the Anglican priest, we stopped by St. Matthew's church early. People were gathering, and the church was decorated with beautiful tall palm branches at the entrance. But Fr. Hossam was not there. He did finally make the long, difficult trek from Nablus in time to celebrate with the community.
The Catholic faithful gathered for Palm Sunday.
We made our way for the Latin Church of Visitation. The churchyard was full of people and palms. The congregation gathered around Abuna Aktham as he blessed the table piled high with olive branches. Then a line of excited and proud kids led the short procession from one end of the convent to the church doors. Abuna knocked three times, and the doors were opened to the singing of "Hosannah Hosannah."
Palestinian children ready to celebrate Palm Sunday Mass.
After church, we went to visit friends and share lunch. Our host worships in the Latin church, but her daughter (with whom she lives) and grandchildren and great-grandchildren worship in the Orthodox church. Since married women usually "convert" to their husband's denomination, mothers and their daughters sometimes wind up in different churches.
We relaxed in their courtyard as we waited for the Orthodox worshippers to arrive - Orthodox services being reliably longer than Latin or Anglican ones. After a delicious meal, good fellowship, and plenty of coffee, we headed home.
Palestinian children ready for Palm Sunday.
The Orthodox gather for afternoon liturgy.
On the way, we stopped to visit with Abuna To'mie, the Orthodox priest. He was on his way back to church for the daily Holy Week prayers (from 4 to 6). So after a short pit stop at home, Marthame headed out again to St. George's. Not many people come for daily prayer, usually just Abuna and a handful of liturgists. Today was an exception, as several dozen joined together in the ancient liturgy of prayer and chanting. Marthame stayed afterwards to help Abuna ready the church for the rest of Holy Week, changing the colors of various decorations to a somber liturgical black.
Our day finished with a nice visit from a friend who is studying at An-Najah University in Nablus. Assuming the university doesn't have to close again, he will complete his final semester in a couple months, and graduate with a BA in Music. We hope so...