April 26, 2003

We got in our Catholic car, carrying our Orthodox lanterns, with Marthame wearing an Anglican robe loaned to him by the Melkite priest, and headed to Jerusalem. Jonathan, our friend from the University, joined for the drive. We took the video camera with us to document the trip.

We knew we had one checkpoint before us and also knew we might have to argue our way through. Dozens of Palestinian cars, busses, and taxis were waiting at Tayasir. Hundreds of men were sitting by the side of the road - clearly it had been a long morning for them already. Marthame began walking towards the checkpoint, not seeing any soldiers. Eventually, one called out for him to stop. Another responded from his hidden vantage point in another watch tower. The two didn't see eye to eye about whether we could pass. Fortunately, the one who thought it was OK was the one who came down to check our IDs.

"We'll be back this afternoon."

"OK! You're fine," he said, giving us a thumbs up.

"What about everybody else? Can they pass?"

"Not until 7:00 tonight. It's Shabbat."

Alas.

We made it down to Jerusalem in good time, meeting up with friends at St. George's College. The guard there is from Zababdeh and recognized us, asking us to deliver Easter presents to his family. We also picked up our new video equipment, which a friend had brought from Boston. She's here as part of a meeting held by the Anglican Diocese who arranged to have a couple of extra tickets for us to attend the lighting of the Holy Fire at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Due to a historic friendship, the Anglicans enter by the generosity of the Armenian Orthodox. We went there to pick up our passes and to join in their procession towards the Church.

Once there, we learned something of the situation this year. There is a current stink between the Greek and Armenian Orthodox as to what the emergence of the light will be. We were told that the last Greek Patriarch, who was unable to walk well, was accompanied by the Armenian Patriarch in the tomb. That became the status quo. The new Greek Patriarch, who celebrated his first Easter last year, wanted to return to the older status quo. There was some kind of disagreement last year, and the Greeks have announced this year that the Armenians will not enter the tomb. The Armenians have felt slighted, and some are planning to bully their way into getting the light. Word is that it could get ugly. Rumors abound, for example, we heard that the mayor of Moscow has come, bringing some Russian security toughs to back up the Greeks. We decided to go anyway, though we decided not to stand down on the floor and opted for a safer, higher spot in case something happens.

There appeared to be some jostling as the Greek Patriarch made his way to the Tomb.

When the Greek procession began, we could see a lot of shoving down on the floor. It was difficult for the Patriarch to make his way through, and we were concerned something worse was going to happen. Fortunately, the worst that seemed to happen was some shoving and insults, which is far milder that what some expected. Nevertheless, the whole affair seems to us to be in extremely poor taste considering the broader context of the region.

The Holy Fire is passed around the Church.

For the gathered faithful, however, all conflict seemed forgotten as soon as the light was passed from the tomb, and joyful celebration erupted upon the floor of the church. Perhaps that was the true miracle of the Holy Light this year.

Marthame shows off the lantern, which will carry the Holy Light back to Zababdeh.

We lit the two lanterns and began making our way back to Zababdeh. At the Tayasir checkpoint, the scene was deserted. A soldier motioned for us to turn around and go back. Marthame got out to speak with him (from a distance of one hundred yards). After a bit of shouting and stubbornness, he called us forward, checking in the trunk and under the hood, and then sent us on through.

The Holy Light processional in Zababdeh.

We arrived back in Zababdeh, with everyone waiting for us. The Scouts led the ecumenical procession, as we stopped at each of the churches for a brief prayer at each. People said it was the first time in three years that there's been such a celebration in town.

The Scouts lead the Holy Saturday evening processional around town.

Elizabeth rested up for tomorrow's continuation of the ecumenical marathon while Marthame went to the Latin Church for their evening worship. After worship, the Scouts led a procession around town. Marthame begged out, though - a long day behind and an early morning ahead were enough.