April 15, 2002

A friend of ours has an expression for coordinating efforts among journalists in the heat of a breaking story: "herding cats," he calls it. The hostel's DIY photographers and other freelancers were trying to herd themselves up to Jenin, now that the Israeli army has lifted the strict closure. Four days has been enough for the army to complete something there; we still wait to learn exactly what that "something" is.

In the meantime, we were herding cats on our trip back to Zababdeh. We found a Jerusalem taxi willing to take us most of the way up to Tayasir. We picked up our friend in Beit Hanina and headed along the Jordan Valley road. Amazing to see how much new building - both militarily and settlement-wise - there's been since the last time we drove this road. We passed two checkpoints with soldiers who were quite friendly. The third one was just bemused, but let us pass anyway. We were picked up in a Palestinian taxi on the other side and arrived in Zababdeh.

It was very, very good to be home and to see our friends there. We had left so quickly that we hadn't had a chance to explain our departure, so we began to make the rounds. As we walked around, folks were happily greeting us, welcoming us home. And so it took a while to get to our first stop, with Abuna Aktham. We conferred about what we can do in the foreseeable future. We decided together that it would be best if we mostly stay outside Zababdeh, but close enough to help bring things in, get things out, and be a communication link to the outside world. Depending on what we're able to get done today, we'll probably head out tomorrow. The most frustrating thing is not being able to check e-mail, but that seems fairly superficial right now.

Everyone here is afraid. Many men are staying awake at night and sleeping during the day to be vigilant in case the army enters. The school is struggling with what to do - recognizing that things are relatively good here, but not wanting to have a curfew imposed with 500 kids stuck at the Latin Convent. When the tanks passed through Zababdeh a week or so ago, everyone from the village fled to the Latin Convent, seeking shelter and sanctuary. Fortunately, it wasn't necessary, but the images of men being rounded up and the absolute carnage - in terms of both people and property - in other places has effectively frightened the population. In that sense, the military operation is a success. But in terms of future prospects, people are very angry and have little hope for a solution. And while it's good to be here, it's hard to hear their stories, too.

The school has been affected indirectly by the recent attacks in the area. One of our seniors lost an aunt in the Jenin Camp destruction. We've had no word from teachers and students in Qabatiya, so we don't know how we've been affected there. The house that was rocketed in Tubas was in the Christian quarter, killing six occupants. It's all hitting very close.

Baby!

We also ran up to the University for a quick visit with the foreigners, most of whom have stuck around. It was great to see them, but they were heavy-heated too. They know at least one of their students has been killed. Watching the news, as most of it drifts away to the diplomatic front and Sharon's and Arafat's new promises, is nothing short of depressing.

On the bright side, there's nothing like seeing a friend's new baby to ease the helplessness a bit.