July 9, 2001 — Mudeif Productions

*The endless long of Palestinian traffic waiting the arbitrary Israeli checkpoint.*

*The steep hill down to the dry riverbed. Everything’s a road when you need it to be.*

We got very little sleep last night, fulfilling our obligations to visit folks in Zababdeh yesterday before leaving early to get into Ramallah in time for class. Our return route was essentially the same round-about way we've taken several times before, but at one Israeli checkpoint there was a long line of cars waiting, with none coming from the other direction (indicating the checkpoint was closed). The traffic continued to build, full of taxis taking people to work and produce trucks carrying fruits and vegetables. We inched forward, not because any cars were getting through, but because impatient drivers were beginning to take up every available inch of space onthe road. We waited in the line for close to an hour, hoping things would change - conditions can change in the blink of an eye. After a while, our driver decided it wasn't worth the wait and began following some brave souls down a steep hill to a dry river bed (dry in most parts, being summer). We negotiated the "road" for another hour before joining back up with the road on the other side of the checkpoint. "Welcome to the occupation," once sang REM's Michael Stipe. We did arrive in Ramallah in time to catch a nap at home in Birzeit before class.

That afternoon, Marthame headed off to find a doctor in Ramallah to help with his ear (he hasn't been able to hear anything out of his left ear for two weeks, which has made sleeping easy, but hearing the alarm difficult). We'll spare you the details of his "ear irrigation" - suffice it to say it was successful. The clinic itself was quite impressive, not far from the center of town and boasting all kinds of specialists. Marthame spent the rest of the afternoon in Ramallah, jumping from sandwich shop to office supply store to ice cream parlor while Elizabeth studied her Arabic lessons.

*The Jubran brothers in concert in Ramallah, Palestine.*

*Marthame with the Jubran brothers after the concert.*

Marthame then connected with friends and our teacher for an 'oud concert at the Khalil al-Sakakini Cultural Center (near the Lutheran Church). Two brothers - Samiir and Wisam Jibran from the Galilee - put on a wonderful show of 'oud duets, ranging from slower pieces and solos to raucously paced ones (audio - 40 sec.), from apparently familiar folk tunes to interesting 'oud harmonies. We are experiencing some culture shock - not from the States to Palestine, but from Zababdeh to Ramallah!