July 27, 2001

Today was mostly a day to rest - we're still pretty disappointed about the cancelled Zababdeh plans (as were a lot of people, but they responded with typical Palestinan patience, " Bahimmish. Bahimmish. (don't worry)." We did get a chance to rest today, eventually wandering over to the Eastern part of the city to meet our Zababdeh neighbor who works at the Arab American University of Jenin - he's getting ready to leave for a while, and it was nice to see him before he goes.

As we wandered back towards the Old City, we saw a taxi (the undercover Ford Transits that make up the Ramallah-Jerusalem artery these days) getting pulled over by Israeli police and soldiers. We stood around the watch as the driver was asked for his identity card. Whatever he gave them wasn't satisfactory (perhaps West Bank ID), and he was carted off. His passengers got out and waited for another taxi to pass so they could continue their commute (might've cost them double - we're not sure).

There was particularly creepy article in the Jerusalem Post today, the city's right-wing voice box (this in addition to the front page, where a photo of graffiti saying "Death to All Arabs" was accompanied by the headline: "A Time for Vengeance?"). An editorial was commenting on press coverage of the siege and violence here, saying it was typical anti-Semitic bias. They gave some specific examples, but said the winner of the "Black Boot Award" (a not-so-subtle reference to Nazism) went to the reporter for the UK Guardian. The final line said, "Congratulations on winning the award. And we're looking forward to delivering it to you in person." Typical stuff for the Post, and nothing to comment on, except that we were staying with friends of ours who are journalists (whose "TV" emblazoned car has been been the target of neighbors' scorn and intimidation, including the careful placement of a boulder on its roof), and we were meeting the Guardian journalist at the American Colony for dinner.

Finding respite beneath the palm trees of the American Colony hotel.

The American Colony has been a place where internationals - particularly journalists - have gathered in East Jerusalem for years. It's a 5-Star hotel with an outdoor cafe under palm trees - a great place to gather in the summer evenings. So we joined with a small group of journalists and NGO workers for a little relaxation. We talked politics, law, human rights, terrorism, and how all of these things have impacted us as foreigners over the past year. This land seems to take it toll, particularly on the very people who take seriously uncovering its nasty truths.