July 16, 2001

We left Jerusalem early this morning, because you never know how long a journey might take. Even though Birzeit is relatively close (like 15 to 20 minutes), we allowed ourselves 2 1/2 hours of travel time. When we got to Ramallah, the taxis were announcing that the off-again on-again Israeli checkpoint at Surda was in effect, so the Taxi Plan B took over - ride to Surda (halfway to Birzeit), walk across the checkpoint, then meet taxis going to Birzeit. But by the time we got there, the checkpoint was gone and it was back to Plan A. We arrived early, but not that early, for class - a bit weary from our exciting weekend.

One of our friends from Zababdeh celebrates her graduation from Birzeit.

After class we lingered to see a bit of graduation - the ceremonies are carried out over the course of three days for different departments and degrees. Three Zababdeh folks were among the diploma-recipients today, so we were able to say hello and "Mabrouk" (congratulations) to some dear friends. It was quite moving to see these young people who had perservered, particularly over the last ten months. As if to underscore this point, the checkpoint was back in effect, meaning families trying to get to Birzeit were delayed (and thus graduation was as well). They were, however, luckier than families in Gaza, who could not attend. We were told that the university had a kind of live video hook-up so that these families could share in some way in their loved ones' big day, and also simply see one another. We've talked to Gaza students who have not been able to make the short trip home for over two years.

An Israeli soldier controlling Palestinian traffic.

In Ramallah, you can get authentic pizza.

Then we headed into Ramallah to meet some friends (from Zababdeh, of course) later on in the evening. We ended up being late, because the Surda checkpoint went back into effect (our taxi driver this time was expecting to get through, but we took Plan B). Drivers were getting through slowly, perhaps one every five minutes of so. This is the unpredictable fact of life for those who must travel this way to and from work (it's a different take on the commuter headaches of the West), with traffic lined up for a quarter of a mile for the privileged humiliation of facing Israeli soldiers. We had a great time in Ramallah, though, with ice cream and pizza (really good pizza!). The amazing thing about this city is how much promise it carries, in spite of being severly crippled by the occupation.

We headed back to Birzeit to find the line of cars at the Surda checkpoint doubled. While we had been in Ramallah, a Palestinian suicide bomber had killed himself and two Israeli soldiers near Tel Aviv, so collective punishment was back in effect. The cacophony of horns seemed to be the only outburst apparent here.