May 21, 2001 — Mudeif Productions

We got a well-deserved late start and began our drive south to Basrah. As we left the capital, the land becomes drier and the climate resembles desert more here. It's the first time that we've noticed garbage alongside the roads. There is an impressive cleanliness to Baghdad and northern Iraq, it must be said. All along the roads there are military checkpoints, but our Conference status and our escort from the Ministry of Religious Affairs gives us easy passage from one region into another.

As we get farther south, the landscape gets greener, and we see more marshy bits and palm trees (Basrah is famous for its dates--over two hundred different varieties!). Basrah also has the unfortunate distinction of being the closest city in Iraq to both Iran and Kuwait, and as such was caught up in the damage inflicted in both wars - we passed a bridge that has yet to be restored from 1991's damage. At the juncture of the Tigris and Euphrates (called the "Arab Shore"), Basrah's once impressive infrastructure has all but crumbled. The effect of the sanctions has been felt most heavily here, too.

We arrived at the Basrah Sheraton (again, along the water) in time to check in. It's once grand (five star) stature has been reduced - our toilet tank lid was held together by some mysterious gray substance (it's simply not feasible to replace, or apparently find mysterious white substances). We arrived late for worship again, and to find that the church is a few days away from completing phase two of their air-conditioning installation - the "turning it on" phase. In the summer there are days when Pastor Gilbert is the only one there, apparently.

*Marthame leads a prayer during worship.*

Another wonderful worship service with wonderful music, as the woman who began First Pres Houston's family-to-family program here (as well as in Kirkuk) talked about how that program has brought Christians across the world into relationships of mutual support and encouragement (Romans 1). One of Houston's families was part of our delegation, and to see their first meeting with their Basra family - with whom they have exchanged letters and photos for almost three years now - was truly moving. Marthame took part in the worship leadership, too.

We then gathered outside for some wonderful fellowship and conversation and an Iraqi-style Presbyterian-potluck. One of the elders, whose mother was Lebanese and father was Turkish, confirmed what had been said about Iraq's religious tolerance. His father had fled Turkey for Iraq to practice his Christianity freely, and this man still felt that Iraq practiced what it preached when it came to diversity and tolerance. Another man told Marthame his story of conversion from Islam to Christianity...who'dathunkit?

It was also Marthame's birthday. The church folks sang "Happy Birthday" and danced with him on their shoulders. While it may be hard to top the 30th (ordination and a bluegrass band), the 31st came in a close second

We returned to our hotel, guarded by the silhouettes of Iraqi officers killed in Iran pointing at the battlefield where they were "martyred".