March 17, 2001

Elizabeth and her ESL class for adults.

After school, we were approached by some of the other Americans (connected with the University) living in Zababdeh, asking about particular needs of the people of the village. It seems that this issue is forcing its way onto our laps and will be one that we will need to seek guidance in addressing. But today was to be a day of travel, following Elizabeth's adult English class.

The Sheikh Hussein Bridge crossing from Israel into Jordan.

We have been hoping since we arrived that we would be able to visit some of the other Arab countries around us. One of the obstacles is the Israeli stamp in our passport. With the exception of Jordan and Egypt, no Arab country will accept a passport (or the person attached to it) that contains the Israeli stamp. As such, it becomes necessary to receive a second passport from the Embassy in Amman. Fortunately for us, issuing these is a routine practice. We drove our car to the Sheikh Hussein bridge and spent what felt like an hour being asked questions by the Israeli border guards. The place was completely empty - the tourist trade has all but dried up.

From the other side, we caught a special taxi to Amman (one of the few in the parking lot) and arrived just after dark. We are staying with friends from the Zababdeh diaspora living in Jordan-- 60% of the population is Palestinian, but they tend to enjoy a lesser status as Jordanian citizens. The city is huge - about two million - and makes up almost half of Jordan's population. The journey has us weary, and we have much to do tomorrow.