December 25, 2000 — Mudeif Productions

Merry Christmas to all. Our first Christmas present was to sleep in late (the three hour Mass last night did us in a bit). We took it easy today, but managed to visit the Bethlehem Museum, run by the Arab Women's Union. Started in 1947 to help those affected by the War, the Union now supports women's cooperative workshops all over Palestine who make traditional clothing. They also run a Museum in Bethlehem that has restored a house to look like 18th or 19th century-era Palestine.

*A pilgrim arrives by camel representing the Magi.*

We then went to nearby Beit Sahour to the Shepherds' Field, where the shepherds were told to visit the manger. There we joined a procession (mostly of Arab Christians from Beit Sahour, Bethlehem, and Beit Jala) to Manger Square, following the path of the shepherds that night.

*Elizabeth in front of one of the pilgrims arriving by camel.*

*Marthame amid the Christmas pilgrims in Betlehem.*

There were some pilgrims from the rest of the world, but taking the center stage were a group of Christians from around the world who had traveled on foot and camel from Iraq through Syria and Jordan. They had symbolically followed the path of the Magi who came to visit the Christ Child 2000 years ago. The planning for this trip began long before the Intifada, but became that much more potent as a Pilgrimage for Peace along the way. Their travel had lasted 99 days, and had been rather smooth until two of their number - one from Sudan and one from Zimbabwe - were prevented from crossing the Allenby Bridge by Israeli forces. Fortunately, the situation was resolved in a mere four days and they arrived in time for the procession.

*Banners in Bethlehem’s Manger Square representing the Palestinian martyrs of the* Intifada.

The procession continued through the streets of Beit Sahour and Bethlehem, arriving to Manger Square to great fanfare - though underwhelming numbers.

*Elizabeth and a young Palestinian holding candles in Bethlehem’s Manger Square.*

There was a dramatic reenactment of the first Christmas, capped by the arrival of the Magi who presented their gifts at the manger. Powerful to watch people who had travelled all that distance with one purpose stop and kneel before the manger, presenting their gifts.

There was a memorial for the martyrs of the Intifada on trees around Manger Square, their names draped like Buddhist prayers and lit with simple white lights. We stayed until it got too cold, but numerous children - Christian and Muslim - made certain that we had adequate candlelight and welcome.

A far cry from the anticipated Christmas 2000, a far cry from the purported dangers lurking at Manger Square, but somehow a fitting way to celebrate and worship there in that place.