December 12, 2000

We left Hebron today (a day later than anticipated, but it was clear that our extended stay was quite intentional). Full Palestinian curfew was in effect in H2 (the Old City), but we saw a couple of girls sneaking their way to school through the shuttered streets. War-like situations seem to turn the world on its head.

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre: no tourists.

We arrived in Jerusalem, and had time to be ugly Western tourists. We found a hostel near the Damascus Gate and headed to the New City to do some shopping and eat McDonald's (mea culpa) before visiting the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and its carved crusader crosses.

Crusader-era crosses carved into the walls of the Holy Sepulchre.

We spent the evening with some of our new friends near the Old City, including a couple recently assigned to the Middle East beat by their newspaper. We talked about all things political and religious, and indulged in two other treats - ice cream and bacon (not together - they were out of Ben n' Jerry's "Pork Rinds"). Full bellies and full hearts.

dec00Mudeif Office