January 2, 2001 — Mudeif Productions

*The Old City of Jerusalem as viewed from the Mt. of Olives.*

*The Russian Orthodox Church of Mary Magdalene on the Mt. of Olives in East Jerusalem.*

Elizabeth and family headed off to the Mount of Olives where we saw a wonderful view of the city. We visited the Church of the Pater Noster, where Elizabeth's mother happily read the Lord's Prayer in Finnish and was amused that the church (which has the prayer in languages from all over the world) had both Portuguese and Brazilian Portuguese. We hustled to get to the Russian Orthodox Church of Mary Magdalene, which has beautiful golden onion domes and limited hours for visitors. We enjoyed the church and its grounds and talking with two of the sisters, one from Serbia and one from Ireland. Elizabeth bought some of their hand-made apricot jam (from their own trees). Yum.

Unfortunately, we missed the Garden of Gethsemane's visiting hours, so we headed through the Valley of Jehosaphat, past the tombs of the Patriarchs and along the walls of the Old City. Our destination was St. Andrew's Church, the Presbyterian church (Church of Scotland). There, we had a look around, especially the Sunbula shop, which sells Palestinian hand crafts in order to provide jobs for economically desperate communities, and also keep the traditions of these crafts alive. After looking at so many beautiful things, we headed on through the German Colony towards the Israel Museum.

*A hill resembling a skull looms over the Arab bus station in East Jerusalem.*

*The door to the Garden Tomb’s eponymous tomb in East Jerusalem.*

Meanwhile, Marthame spent the morning nursing a cold, curled up with a good book and some even better cough syrup. Later in the day he did manage to wander out of the hotel to visit some friends but happened upon the site of the "Garden Tomb." Held by the British government, it claims some (although limited) archaeological legitimacy for being the site for the crucifixion and burial places of Jesus. Unlike the aura of mystery and the millenia of tradition of the Holy Sepulchre, the Garden Tomb goes for historicity. Poised above the Arab bus station (a former quarry) is a hill resembling a skull. Digging has revealed an ancient garden nearby, as well as some ancient tombs - including one where the place for feet was never carved out (the tour guide explained that one reason could be the resurrection of the intended occupant!). Some have called it Protestant sour grapes at being squeezed out of the Sepulchre, but the place has an altogether different feel. Unlike the Holy Sepulchre, which is usually (although not this year) crowded by pilgrims and tourists, noisy and full of bustle, the Garden Tomb presents a very peaceful place surrounded by gardens for quiet reflection and prayer.

*The tomb at the heart of the Garden Tomb in East Jerusalem.*

As Marthame attempted to rendevous with the rest of the gang, he encountered the snarl of competitive (political?) economics. Elizabeth had the Palestinian cellphone. Marthame could be in conversation with it from East Jerusalem and Old City payphones, but not from new city payphones - they don't recognize the 059 prefix.

Nevertheless, we managed to rendezvous at the expansive Israel Museum (highlights included the Dead Seas Scrolls and Ethiopian Coptic Crosses) and for dinner back in a grand (need we say "empty?") old restaurant on the Arab side of town.